Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and travelers equally celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a prestigious roster of world cities and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it enters a worldwide network of more than four hundred cities across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The honor "demonstrates its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and lively food ecosystem," as noted by a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this venerable city is no surprise to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, bustling, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is finally in the spotlight for what has perennially defined its essence: an unparalleled love for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing conversation from waking up until going to bed in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, merging Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just highlights fresh harvests but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on every corner, there are little shops and carts – hidden gems that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a simple joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and demanding. The artisan beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but note that their younger generation are reluctant to take up the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will inspire more people globally to learn these tales and visit the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
